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September 1997
Ahoy, It has been more than a week since my last log. A lot has been going on. Here's the week in chronological order: Friday, September 19. The crew celebrated hard and late into the night on Friday commemorating our arrival home to Baltimore after almost four months away in the Great Lakes. They also were wishing farewell to two departing crew members, First Mate Chris Flansberg, and Bosun John Hope. Saturday, September 20. The whole crew went to see an Orioles baseball game against the Tigers. The Orioles won big! Also, some of the crew accepted an invitation that evening from our friends at the Fells Point Yacht Club to their annual crabfeast. Sunday, September 21. This was a one watch day. The Port watch had the day off, while the Starboard watch handled an open house and a three hour, day-sail for Pride, Inc.'s members. Monday, September 22. Today was the Port watch's day on duty. They hosted two visiting school groups in the morning and an evening sail with business leaders including James Brady, Secretary of the Maryland Department of Economic Development. Tuesday, September 23. This was an all hands day. We did maintenance in the morning and prepared for a mid-day sail with Baltimore's Hyatt Hotel. As soon as that sail was completed at 1500 hrs, the crew welcomed aboard six guest passengers for the sail to Norfolk. Our guests included George and Vic Walton, two brothers who have sailed with us before (see Vic's vivid description of life aboard at Passengers Write). We also boarded our new First Mate, Doug Leasure, who has sailed with PRIDE on at least five other occasions. We also took on our new Bosun, Dutch Shultis, who is sailing with PRIDE for the time aboard. We finally got underway at 1700 hrs. Wednesday, September 24. We arrived at Norfolk Navy Yard at 1330 hrs after a rather fast sail down the Bay in a breeze blowing first from the west to northwest and finally north to northeast as a front passed by. We made 170 nautical miles in 20 hours, 30 minutes for an average speed of 8.3 knots. Not a record but still significant, considering the fact that we sailed from PRIDE's dock in the Inner Harbor of Baltimore all the way to the dock at the Norfolk Navy Yard without assistance of motor power. It is rarely possible to sail from one harbor to another all the way down the Bay in the same weather system. But this system changed as we traveled and it was therefor possible to remain in favorable winds all the way along the transit. The purpose of our visit to the Norfolk Navy Yard was to participate in the inactivation ceremony of the USS BALTIMORE, a nuclear attack submarine of the Los Angeles class. As we approached the Navy Yard, the BALTIMORE's Commanding Officer came out about a mile or so and boarded PRIDE for the sail in and docking. From the Navy's point of view, PRIDE is a totally alien form of boating. But all kinds of compliments were heard on the look of PRIDE, her cleanliness, her high quality finish, the crews' conduct and professionalism, and our ability to maneuver without the aid of tugs. I think this last observation was a compliment to me as skipper. But it could have been a true sense of wonder about PRIDE's maneuverability. The afternoon was spent securing PRIDE and setting up for the anticipated rain. When all work was done, everyone had a chance to go for a tour of the sub. She is an example of multiple redundancy in all systems, crowded into tight spaces, with 140 officers and men squeezed in among the gear. Thursday, September 25. Today was the ceremony for the inactivation of the USS BALTIMORE. Over 300 persons attended. The Baltimore City contingent included Chris Hartman, PRIDE Board member and press secretary to William Donald Schaefer, Baltimore Mayor in 1982 when the USS BALTIMORE was first commissioned. Chris has since been the main point of contact between the sub and the city. Also in attendance were: former Congresswoman Marjorie Holt, the original sponsor of the USS BALTIMORE; former Congresswoman Helen Bently, an advocate for maritime and naval affairs; Oriole legend Brooks Robinson and son; Pride, Inc.'s Executive Director Mark Belton; and Captain Robert Glover, also of Pride, Inc. The inactivization ceremony followed a formal Navy ritual which was somber in message but proud of the quality and character of the crew, past and present, that had been with the BALTIMORE. Most impressive to me were the gifts passed on to PRIDE OF BALTIMORE II and the City of Baltimore. One of these was a pendent from the original PRIDE OF BALTIMORE. This pendent (the large flag with the ship's name that flies atop the foremast) had been flown on the original PRIDE and was presented to the BALTIMORE at her commissioning in 1982. It was in fact flying on the BALTIMORE the day of the ceremony. We now have it back - one of the few artifacts from the original PRIDE OF BALTIMORE that we have. Receiving this gift vividly brought back my days with that grand sailing ship. Despite the sadness of the occasion, it was good to say hello again to the BALTIMORE's previous Commanding Officers. They too came to the ceremony and we were able to reminisce about past times together during Change of Captain ceremonies that occurred aboard PRIDE. The last such rendezvous occurred near Thimble Shoal Light near Norfolk when PRIDE II was leaving the Bay bound for Europe in 1985. We spent the time after the ceremony and reception getting cleaned up and ready for the new batch of guest passengers. The six that had come down from Baltimore had departed having enjoyed a great sail with no motoring and a tour of a nuclear submarine. Friday, September 26. We are underway again. One of our guest crew members is the "Sailor of the Year" for the squadron of which the USS BALTIMORE is part. We are now adrift in a virtual calm in the middle of the Bay some five miles northwest of the Chesapeake Bay Tunnel Bridge. It appears from the sky that we will soon need to start pushing with the engines in order to be anchored somewhere by dark. While I wait out the weather and assess what to do next, the crew are carrying on with maintenance chores. Even with the calm, it is pleasant to be out of the Navy Yard and the din of an aircraft carrier's ventilating system roaring nearby.
Cheers,
We arrived here in Baltimore's Outer Harbor at 1830 hours after a very pleasant afternoon sail from the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal in a light northerly breeze. The sun set over Baltimore at 1911 hrs while all hands finished putting sail away and hosing off and scrubbing down the deck. Many ate supper on deck while gazing at the twilight as it changed. Baltimore City stood proud and beautiful in the clear air as the tall buildings began to light up as the sky darkened. With no effort at all, we could see Camden Yards all lit up for the night's game. With binoculars we could make out the Bromo Clock Tower. After darkness fell fully, we enjoyed the fireworks show! Tomorrow we sail into the Inner Harbor at 1100 hrs to help mark Baltimore's 200th birthday. It is nice to see the town looking so good on the eve of our return from a summer of sailing as Goodwill Ambassador in the Great Lakes! To back up a bit, I returned to PRIDE last Tuesday, Sept. 16, to relieve my partner, Captain Robert Glover. PRIDE was in Philadelphia. Bob and I did the usual exchange of information between captains, then he raced home to see his family. I settled into the routine of the ship. That evening, we co-hosted a dockside reception with Inland Leidy, a Baltimore based company. Wednesday was a typical day with open houses for the public most of the day. That evening we welcomed aboard six guest crew who would make the trip to Baltimore. We got underway early Thursday morning (this am) at 0430 hours to make a favorable ebb tide down the Delaware River and get into the Chesapeake Bay early enough in the day to go for a sail before darkness fell. By noon we were under sail in the Upper Bay. To make things both convenient and easy, the weather provided a comfortable north wind to blow us down The Bay. We broke out all the 'kits' -- the light air sails that aren't seen very much. The wind held through the afternoon and we were able to sail all the way to our current anchorage without using the motors. A very pleasant experience. A great way to return to PRIDE. Returning to PRIDE marks a big event for the crew. While Bob and I execute the same mission for the company aboard the same vessel, we represent quite a bit of change for the crew. Each of us has our peccadilloes and it takes a while for the crew to adjust. A number of the present crew were aboard when I got off in Milwaukee last July, so they were prepared for my idiosyncrasies. But they have been passing the word to the new crew about how they need to be "learning" hard in preparation of my arrival because I "demand" a great deal and don't brook much confusion. Naturally, this is mostly tomfoolery as it is the mates that drive the crew, not the captain. But it has been fun for them to perk up the anxiety level among in the new crew. If our sail today is any indicator of the general level competence, I think this should be a pretty uneventful transition. Kudos to my partner and the officers!
See you in Baltimore,
Good Morning! This morning we are anchored about 8 miles south of Philadelphia in the Delaware River across from Ft. Mifflin, which is near the Philadelphia International Airport. We got here about 2300 last evening. We dropped the hook and all went to our bunks. It's been a long 16 days since Montreal. When you finally get to your destination, it is very rewarding. Your body seems to sense this, too - I've been yawning and sleepy since we got here. I think the 'ol bod is saying, "OK, you're here now, time to relax!!" We will get underway from our anchorage at 1015 and head up river to Penn's Landing to arrive dockside at noon. In Philadelphia we will be hosting Tate Access Floors, Inland-Leidy, and Mid- Atlantic Magazine. Captain Miles and I will also be switching out here. I get off on Tuesday and return home to my wife and kids. Needless to say I can't wait to see them. Two days (never mind six weeks) always seams too long to be away from them.
Bye for now,
Ahoy all, After anchoring up inside of Sandy Hook yesterday, we stayed the afternoon and evening. Most of us slept, read books, played musical instruments, etc. We all turned in early as I wanted to get underway by midnight to catch the flood tide in the Delaware Bay entrance some 15 hours later. We did indeed get underway at 0030. The wind has been light out of the northwest, less than 6 knots. At 0730 this morning we heard on the VHF radio a conversation between the USCG and a small sailboat called the SNOWSQUALL. He needed assistance as his exhaust system had sprung a leak. Therefore he couldn't use his engine. The wind was calm and the sea a low swell. He was only 8 miles south of us, off Barnegat Inlet. So we called the vessel and offered our help as we have the equipment and supplies to temporarily fix such a problem. We put together a "repair kit" of MARINE-TEX (2 part epoxy that hardens like steel), 2 pieces of pre-cut 2" exhaust hose, hose clamps, and a second 2 part epoxy mix. We hove-too next to the SNOWSQUALL and launched our rescue boat, HIPPO. The second mate and engineer proceeded to pass over our kit to the gentleman who was sailing all alone. The mate reports he was thankful but seemed very tired and somewhat spacy. He must have had a very long night. We went on our way knowing we helped a fellow mariner who can now make port safely. We should arrive at the mouth of the Delaware Bay by 1700 and start the long 87 mile ride up the Bay and river. We will be navigating mostly at night when the waterway is full of commercial traffic -- tugs, barges, and large deep draft vessels. It's the St. Lawrence Seaway all over again! Tomorrow we arrive in Philadelphia, PA., some 1820 nautical miles from Montreal. As always aboard PRIDE II, the trip went nothing as I envisioned it (never does). Making transit is one of constant evaluation of the facts and circumstances and making decisions accordingly. It will be welcoming for me to finally tie up at Penn's Landing in Philly. It has been a long 6 weeks. I get relieved by Captain Miles on the 16th and go home to my life ashore -- my real life with my wife and two boys who mean everything to me. Two months away is always hard.
Bye for now.
Ahoy all! Well now! The last 24 hours have been a whirlwind of intense sailing activity and renewing relationships in the Mecca of the traditional boat world here in the USA. We arrived off Maine about 1000 yesterday and sailed into Blue Hill Bay. The wind had come up out of the east about 0730 and the dense fog of the Gulf of Maine let up some. The fog came and went giving us peeks of the rocky pine-forested coast -- like a child looking out from under the covers of his bed. As we got further up the Bay, the fog finally lifted completely leaving us a low overcast day. We sailed around a while until the schooner LEWIS R. FRENCH sailed over. And the fun began! We crossed tacks with the FRENCH and fired two cannons on their weather bow. Then we tacked again and sailed along side until it was time to head west to Eggemogin Reach and Brooklyn, Maine, the home of our friend, Jon Wilson, the founder of Woodenboat and Hope magazines. All the schooners were to anchor there for the evening and enjoy a "Schooner Jamboree". As we sailed into Jerico Bay, out of the haze headed directly for PRIDE II was the rest of Maine schooner fleet! The fastest vessels were taking the lead as they were hard on the wind. We had the wind advantage and sailed right through the middle of them blasting cannons on both sides. The fleet tacked and bore off following our stern. We finally went hard on the wind and they followed suit. NOW the real race was on. The ability of any schooner to go to weather or "sail closest to the wind as possible" is a sign of her design as well as the sharpness of her crew (not to mention the ability of the captain at the helm). PRIDE II is in her element here as she was breed to sail hard on the wind. We stayed abreast of and were able to sail alongside the ANGILIQUE but lost some ground to the MARY DAY. These two boats are the only serious challengers to PRIDE II. In Jerico Bay that day, it must have been a wonderful sight as 14 schooners played around like friendly dogs in a big open field. Finally the play time was over and we all headed into Brooklyn. Over 150 folks lined the shore and watched a rare sight in the modern world - a whole fleet of traditional vessels sailing into port with all sail set in a light wind, ghosting into the cove, dousing sail, dropping anchor, and settling back for the evening. We did the same but of course we let loose with two cannon salutes as we rounded up and took in sail. We tied up for the evening along side the 3-masted schooner VICTORY CHIMES. Captain Kip Files is a boyhood friend and these two old salts enjoyed a heady bout of teasing and boasting. The afternoon and evening was spent in visiting and admiring other vessels, talking with old hands you've sailed with, and getting to know others who put in their bid to be PRIDE II's next cook, deckhand, or mate, etc. All in all, it was an enjoyable and productive visit renewing old acquaintances and getting good leads on future crew members. After a hardy breakfast we slipped our mooring lines, set sail, and proceeded to sail through the fleet. Of course, we gave everyone two last cannon salutes! We sailed out of the harbor and off the Maine coast bound for the Cape Cod Canal in favorable east to southeast winds. Let's hope it holds on through the evening.
Bye for now,
Ahoy all! FOG, FOG AND MORE FOG. Thick as Cool whip, it is!! Ever since we rounded Cape Sable at the south end of Nova Scotia we have been in "dungeon thick" fog, as the Maine natives would say. Plus there has been little to no wind. So we motor along in what seems like a white cave of moisture. There's a quietness about the ship that is ghost-like. The constant rumble of the engines, the electronic beeps from the radar as the mates make adjustments and scan the ranges, the muffled voices of the crew going about their duties, and the sound of the vessel moving through the cold waters of the Gulf of Maine are all one hears. All one sees is the glow of the running lights reflecting off the water droplets, the constant motion of the radar antenna drawing circles with its invisible pulses of energy stretching out to find out what may be lurking in the distance, and the occasional movement of the bow watch trying to keep warm. We are progressed across the Gulf and are now three quarters of the way across. We should be among the Islands of Maine by 1000 hours. If the fog is still with us, it will be a busy time for this Captain! Moving along the Maine coast in foggy conditions is guaranteed to raise your blood pressure. Another topic of discussion this morning is Hurricane Erika. Here aboard PRIDE II, we are starting to closely monitor her movement. We need to be heading south in 48 hours and this causes concern as the hurricane is now heading generally north. There are few places to hide along the coast of New England. New Bedford, MA, Hudson River, Philadelphia, and the Maine coast are some of the better places to hide for various reasons of the their own. If Erika comes this way, it will be frightening as any storm is. As some of you may know from three years ago, PRIDE II and I dodged two hurricanes and two tropical storms on our way back from the west coast - so we're pretty good at it. We'll let you know how things go today in this fog, and whether we make the Wooden Boat Schooner Jamboree later on today in Brooklyn, ME, as we hope.
Bye for now.
Ahoy all! Happy Monday Maryland! We are underway again. We departed Halifax at 0400 and are motoring again in calm seas. Nhaa, can't be! Yup, it's flat calm with partly sunny skies and three miles visibility. If you have to motor it might as well be flat calm so you can make good time to your next destination. Our run from Port Hawkesbury turned into a pounding headwind and headsea ride for the whole trip. I had hoped to get around Nova Scotia without stopping. However the weather was so aggressive that we burned up all kinds of fuel. When PRIDE II pushes into head winds, her towering rig causes a lot of resistance. Therefore the engines work harder and consume more fuel. After that pounding, we wouldn't have had enough to then go across the Gulf of Maine. We could have sailed along the coast of Nova Scotia. However given the weather conditions, I decided it would be better to head toward Halifax, a place I was familiar with and knew I could get fuel on a Sunday. During that rough ride, most of the new deckhands were "green around the gills" and the rest were feeling tired due to a lack of sleep. The forecastle, where the crew sleeps, was jumping up and down about 8 foot at times -- so nobody slept well. By 2200 this evening we will be rounding Cape Sable and heading toward Maine. We will just make the annual Woodenboat Schooner Jamboree on Tuesday evening. The crew and this Captain are really looking forward to participating in this event. We are willing to go hard the last five days to Philly to arrive on the 15th in the morning as scheduled. We had a pleasant stay in Halifax. The crew had the afternoon off after some morning maintenance. We all went out to dinner at a local pub called the "Split Crow" and gave the cook the evening off. I went to a Scottish shop and found a new pair of hand knitted white wool socks to wear with my kilt. It's been fun, and the locals have really appreciated seeing a traditional vessel arrive in their port with a Captain who wears a kilt! Scottish tradition runs deep in Canadian maritime history.
Bye for now.
Good Day all! At this point in time we are still anchored between Nova Scotia and Cape Breton Island off the town of Port Hawkesbury, officially know as the "Gateway to Cape Breton." I wish is it was the "Gateway To Fair Weather!" We are still waiting out the STORM that is just passing offshore this morning. It is rapidly moving to the northeast and should be over Newfoundland by tonight. Our plan is to stay at anchor all day, then get underway around 0100 Saturday morning. This will put us around Cape Canso and running along the coast of Nova Scotia at daybreak. We will then make haste down the coast and over to Maine. We will clear Customs and then get fuel. I hope to sail with the Maine fleet over to Brooklyn, Maine, and participate in the annual Wooden Boat Schooner Sail-In that they host every year. That is on Tuesday, Sept. 9. But only Mother Nature knows if this will all work out as planned. Yesterday it rained most of the morning. The crew engaged in maintenance and then had the afternoon off. Half went ashore for the afternoon, the rest during the evening. It was a quite night at anchor, followed by a mostly sunny daybreak with a brisk wind from the NW backing to W and blowing about 20-30 knots. Today the crew will be doing maintenance all day. As with any schooner or tall ship plying the Canadian Maritimes, we have caused quite a stir in town. Cars are constantly coming down to the waterfront and stopping to look at the beautiful clipper schooner anchored in the harbor. Many have never seen the likes of such a fine looking ship.
Bye for now,
Ahoy folks, Presently we are anchored in a great little cove in the extreme eastern corner of Nova Scotia. We have been here since 1030 last night. We transited Canso Lock between Nova Scotia and Cape Breton Island about dinner time last night. The weather is forcasted to be snotty the next 48 hours along the coast of Nova Scotia with gale force winds. The front that is passing over Baltimore today will effect the Canadian Maritime provinces tomorrow. So we have decided to stay in the area until the front passes and then use the northerly winds to head towards the southwest. We are now getting underway from this anchorage and heading 20 miles to the north, to Port Hawksbury on Cape Breton Island which is protected from any wind direction. We will stay there until Friday morning. We should be anchored by 1530 this afternoon. We'll then hang out for the weather to change. Funny -- all the way from Montreal we had a big high over us, with hardly any wind. Now we have so much wind we can't go anywhere! So we have been using this morning to engage in crew training, like engine room operations and basic navigation. There's always something to teach and learn. Unfortunately, we will have to clear Canadian Customs again. However, with the wonders of cell phones, it's amazing what you can get done. We will keep you posted.
A-HOE,
Ahoy all! Well now -- the last 30 hours has been one of sailing for six hours followed by ten hours of motorsailing, then back to sailing. Presently we are motoring again. The wind is somewhat undecided as it will grow in strength to 15-16 knots, then die out to 3-6 knots. The sky overhead will be bright blue and clear for a while, then have a heavy overcast gray "fog bank" look to it. We seem to get the wind with the overcast sky. At this rate, we should make the Straits of Canso and the Canso Lock at dinner time. I'm not totally sure yet, but I may stop for the evening in Port Hawkesbury which is a small community in the Straits on Cape Breton Island. Our volunteer crew, who is from Cape Breton, says there's a McDonald's and a Mall in the village. Whooo, what more could we want?? Actually what we want is to go through the Straits of Canso during day time. Since we are getting there in the evening, we will anchor up, then leave in the morning to transit the Straits. Fuel is getting to be a concern. We may stop at Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, to get fuel. If not, we will stop for fuel in Maine. However this decision will be controlled by the weather. A huge high pressure cell is moving down out of Canada in the next four days and may keep us from getting to Maine. We may be forced to head SW and take advantage of the Northerly winds and head to Southern New England and Nantucket. But that's life on a sailboat! While underway yesterday, I was playing around with the ship's Sony high frequency radio and was tuned in to the BBC from England. As you can imagine all aboard quickly gathered around the radio and listened to the shocking news of Princes Diana's tragic car accident and her subsequent death. Personally it saddened me, as any death does. She suffered much in her life at the hands of media, politics, and a royal destiny that was out of her control. To die in such a manner shows the tragedy of life to all of us, and reminds us that we all need to prepare our hearts. I trust all had a great Labor Day weekend!!!
Bye for now.
Ahoy all! HAPPY LABOR DAY WEEKEND TO ALL!! As you all enjoy your favorite family traditions and have a great cookout today, we aboard PRIDE II will be thinking of you. Actually, wishing we were there, having a great charcoal burger! But maybe you would rather be here. Presently we are SAILING! Yes, the wind started to fill in, lightly, but it did fill in from the SSW around midnight last night. At 0030 we set the foresail and stay'sl. Then at 0500 we called all hands and set all of PRIDE II's sails, except for the kites and topgallant. We are now sailing in overcast sky's even though there's a high barometer. The wind is steady at 9-13 knots from the south. We are now tacking our way towards the Straits of Canso. The forecast is for the wind to veer to the SW. We have left the concentration of ship traffic and congestion in the St. Lawrence River, and now have the openness of the Gulf of St. Lawrence ahead of us. Thankfully it's much less stress for the crew and myself. There still much talk aboard about where to go and what to do if we continue to be ahead of schedule -- maybe visit Maine for one or two days, or push on to Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard. Maybe we will spend a day or two with the schooner SHENANDOAH. But first we have to make it around Nova Scotia -- one thing at a time. Since I took command in Milwaukee, this is first time I have gotten to use the new weather fax machine that was an upgrade from the old unit - a much appreciated donation from Crown Central Petroleum. It is MUCH better than the old unit. I now get large clear weather maps consisting of analysis and forecast. Plus, we get a written forecast from the NAVTEX broadcast from either the NWS or Environment Canada. This information is of great value in planning our various passages. One highlight of yesterday's bright skies and calm seas was the many sightings of fin back whales. We also saw a few beluga whales -- maybe a total of 8 during the course of the day. It feels good to be back in the salt water, full of life and energy!
Bye for now,
Past Logs | August 1997 | July 1997 | June 1997 | May 1997 | March - April 1997 | December 1996 |
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