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Date: Sunday, September 17, 2000
Position: Off the coast of Norway
Latitude: 59:06.51 N    Longitude: 10:41.21 E    Heading 354 deg Magnetic
Conditions: Wind: 5 knots E    Barometric Pressure: 1016.5    Skies: clear, cloudy ahead
Entered By: Teacher Aboard Lee Vogtman

Good morning!

We've left "vacker" (beautiful) Sweden and are sailing "rakt fram" (straight ahead) to Norway!

I'm typing this as we forge ahead into the Oslolfjorden headed toward Oslo, Norway, and although my topic is Göteborg, Sweden, I must share with you what I experienced last night while standing watch.

Photos by Pekka Parvianinen of Virtual Finland

It began with a gorgeous nightfall and a clear moon that lit up the night sky. We were at full sail and I was doing the boat check when the watch captain announced that the Northern Lights had been sighted! The entire ship's crew clambered on deck to see this magnificent phenomenon which began around 10:15 pm and lasted, off and on, for about an hour. Like luminescent, shimmering patches of curtain, they would appear and dance in the north sky for moments or minutes at a time. It was the first time I've seen the Northern Lights and I now know what all the fuss is about! Each time I've seen or experienced something new and wonderful on this journey I think, "now that has made sailing aboard Pride II worthwhile." But then the next day comes around the corner with even more surprises in store for me! For now, though, let's talk about Sweden and some of Pride II's professional crew!

The Approach to Göteborg
The night before we arrived in Göteborg, we had a beautiful sunset that brought some good winds for sailing. Then began our great sleigh ride up the Baltic Sea. The wind was blowing 20 knots with gusts to 25 and the boat was galloping along like a racehorse!

The guest crewmembers were trying to stay on their feet and take pictures of each other. Work still had to be done and Chris Landers climbed up to lash something as I managed to take an interesting shot of him at work (see him up there in the rig?) The boat heeled (leaned) over as she blasted along at 11 knots.

When I was relieved of my watch duties, I went below to my bunk only to discover that I kept rolling out of bed since the boat was on a starboard tack (wind over the right side) and I sleep on the starboard side! The only solution was to put my two luggage bags under the mattress to form a wedge that would keep me in the bunk! Needless to say, I didn't sleep much that night!

The next day we began our approach to Sweden and the wind slowed as we cruised through the countless number of islands that dot the coastline.

As we neared the harbor, we caught sight of this high speed catamaran ferry. It uses jet drives to rocket between Denmark and Sweden at speeds of up to 45 knots!

In the distance we saw the bridge and the seaman's church that announce the entrance into the harbor. Off our starboard we saw cannons on the hillside and to the port we saw the fort that protected the harbor from invasion.

We finally came to what would be our resting place for two days and tied up alongside the dock.

For each city we visit, there is always a schedule that lets us know when we have an Open House where the public can come aboard. During the Open House in Sweden, I had the pleasure of meeting a very interesting 85 year old man who has been building boats in bottles his entire life. When he heard that we would be visiting his city, he came right down to see the boat and to share something with us. He had built one of his models of Pride of Baltimore II based on a photograph! It was a pleasure to meet this gentleman and see one of the products of his hobby.

A New Göteborg East Indianman Tall Ship

After securing the boat, we took a ferry to a nearby project site where some 80 workers (some volunteer) are building a replica of the Swedish East Indianman tall ship Göteborg which sank in 1743 just outside the harbor with families looking on. The ship had been on its third trading mission to China when it sank in Göteborg harbor. We had been invited by the project foreman who gave us a special tour through the construction site. The boat is enormous and most of its materials are produced on the site. We were able to visit all the workshop areas and see the meticulous model that's used to lay out and examine all the pieces of the ship to make sure everything is placed and functions correctly. The boat will be roughly 180 feet long and 33 feet wide. It should be exciting to see her launched in 2002!!

Göteborg, the City

Like the other Scandinavian cities, Göteborg had its traditional elements mixed with the modern. I walked along the canal until I reached the center of the city and found myself looking up at a statue of King Gustaf keeping watch over the town. A bit further on, I came across this old church that sits in the middle of a 'pedestrian-only' shopping area! Perhaps the most contemporary example that brought a special smile to my face as I thought of my Theater students was this banner outside the Opera House. Guess what's playing!

Drakbergsskol

With such a limited amount of time in Sweden, I was only able to visit one school, the Drakbergsskol just outside the city. The teachers were very flexible and friendly. I met with two groups of students and thoroughly enjoyed them all. They were very interested in hearing about American schools and how they differ.

The scrapbook (again from Perry Hall Middle School!) was a big hit and had everybody gathering around to see it.

We gathered together for a quick picture before I had to leave. The teachers expressed a desire to see the boat and mentioned that they might try to take some of the students into the city and down to the harbor to see Pride II.

I was pleasantly surprised two hours later when the teachers showed up with many of their students! Talk about a lesson in flexibility!! It was wonderful to see that the students had been interested enough to visit the boat after hearing about it. I hope that they make contact with their peers in Maryland. I know they'll find some good friends.

Go to Part 2 of the September 17, 2000 Log

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