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O-haiyo-gozaimasu (Good morning/Japanese)
INLAND SEA OF JAPAN
Perhaps it is the anticipation of new places to explore that makes traveling to a new country feel like a great adventure. Arriving in a new land would be exciting, no matter what the mode of transportation, but it is especially interesting when sailing on an 1812-era tall ship which has traveled from a half world away. There is something tantalizing about the gradual way in which arrival by sea reveals a new world to you. As in the early days of sailing ships, your first impression is the landscape as it slowly rises up on the horizon. Entering the Inland Sea of Japan, which stretches through the center of the country, it is obvious that the coastline was formerly volcanic. Steep sided mountains covered in lush green forests surround the protected waters of this passage. With the exception of the occasional fishing village, the landscape remained unspoiled.
 | The potential peacefulness of this setting, however, was disturbed by the constant parade of smaller coastal tankers and ferry boats that use this stretch of water as a marine highway. This body of water can prove challenging due to the swift currents of the tide, the rocky shoreline, and heavy ship traffic. We saw one tanker that had recently sunk. Salvage crews were working on taking it apart. Nevertheless, Captain Parrott chose an anchorage in a small bay away from the main channel to spend some time as we awaited our scheduled arrival in Osaka. |
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It is said that the image that brings peace to the heart of the Japanese is the view of a calm sea. Then it should be proper to think of the sea for the Japanese as the place where the soul is alive at its deepest.
Kunio Tsuji in Umi (Japan) 1987 |  |
 | The calm of our anchorage provided an unexpected opportunity to rest our “souls” and tidy up a few things for our arrival in Osaka. John Shellenberger used SCUBA gear to attach new pieces of zinc to the hull to protect the props from being corroded (dissolved) by salt water. Other crew members varnished the bright work (wood) or cleaned house below decks. The quiet moments of the evening were used by some crew to practice songs on their guitars or enjoy a meal on deck watching the sunset. We were grateful for these restful sunny days before Pride II weighed (raised) anchor for our first port in Japan - Osaka. |
OSAKA WELCOMES PRIDE II
| Rain did not dampen the warm enthusiastic welcome waiting for us in Osaka. Small boats decked out in welcome signs powered out to meet us. A helicopter made several passes and a fireboat greeted us with displays of colored water. As the crew fired cannons and lowered the main sail, crowds lined the docks eagerly waiting to greet Pride II on her first visit to Japan. Once the ship was secure at her dock, we came ashore for a small ceremony with city officials. Speeches were made and gifts exchanged after which each crew member was given a lei of colored paper. It was a thoughtful gesture by the Nanko Sakura Kindergarten who then performed a drum and dance program. To see these 3-6 year old children dressed up in costumes and performing in such a synchronized (together) fashion was quite incredible. It was a memorable moment for all of us. |  |
THE PORT OF OSAKA
 | | Resting on a delta formed by two rivers, Osaka was formerly home to five emperors, from the 4th to 8th centuries. Today the modern city of Osaka is Japan’s second largest trading port. It handles 40% of the country’s exports. In the midst of all this harbor activity, Osaka has constructed a lovely shopping complex similar to Baltimore’s HarborPlace. The Port Authority hosted an elegant party for the crew in the nearby World Trade Center. An observation area provided a scenic view of Pride II nestled at the foot of the dock near several large tankers. The difference in size between Pride II and these ships suggested how the demands of world shipping and cargoes have changed. |
SAIL-O VOLUNTEERS
| Becoming oriented (familiar) to new cities, particularly in a new country, can be frustrating. Recognizing the challenge this presents for the crew of a tall ship, Osaka has developed a special group of volunteers who paved the way for the crew of Pride II. Having hosted the crews from several tall ships in 1997, the Sail-O Volunteers were very helpful in planning our visit. They hosted a welcome party for us where we met interpreters, gathered maps and brochures, and began our first introduction to Japanese foods and Japan’s special tea ceremony. They also showed us how to write our name in Japanese calligraphy. We made many friends among these folks, many of whom went to great efforts to escort me to schools and provide tours of Osaka. From all of us on Pride of Baltimore II - thank you for your generous hospitality! |  |
| OSAKA AQUARIUM |  |
It seems only appropriate for an island nation which is surrounded by water to have a special interest in the creatures who are, in many ways, their neighbors. As a certified diver, I can assure you that touring the Osaka Aquarium is as close as you can come to experiencing the visual sensation of diving. When you stand at the base of the main aquarium, which reaches 27 feet to the surface, it is easy to imagine yourself as a visitor among the residents of this huge tank. Only 30 centimeters of plexiglas separate you from the waters of this marine world where several fifteen foot whale sharks slowly slip past. In addition to this huge tank, there are exhibits of penguins, seals, giant spider crabs, and playful otters. The theme of the aquarium focuses on ocean environments along the Pacific Rim. It provides a dazzling array of marine life – from shallow waters to ocean depths. Appropriately, it is a place where visitors gain a special appreciation for this watery world. Upon exiting, several quotes were posted in large letters on the wall. One of them read:
This we know - the Earth does not belong to man, man belongs to the Earth. All things are connected like the blood which unifies one family. Whatever befalls the Earth, befalls the sons of the Earth. Man did not weave the web of life; he is merely a strand in it. Whatever he does to the web, he does to himself.
Chief Seattle, American Indian, mid 19th century
FERRIS WHEEL
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Adjacent (next to) the aquarium is an impressive Ferris wheel that reaches 366 feet at its highest point. The crew “road tested” it and determined that one trip around takes 16 minutes. We have noted that Ferris wheels are a popular form of entertainment in each of the ports and provide a pleasant way to view the surrounding landscape. At night they are brightly decorated with lights and add to the festive glow of city lights on the water. |
FESTIVAL GATE FOR KIDS
 | In the vicinity of the Tennoji Zoo is a multilevel amusement center for kids. Entering the complex, the vibration and roar of the roller coaster catches you by surprise as it zooms past and into a dark tunnel between the shops. Other rides roll and twist, pushing the passengers to the limit of what they can endure. On the gentler side, there is a merry-go-round and a large selection of games. Shops featuring stuffed animals lure young shoppers who also have their choice of restaurants and goodies, such as ice cream, to satisfy their appetites. Japanese, young and old, enjoy ice cream, although adults enjoy some sophisticated (fancy) flavors such as “green tea! |
NARA - THE OLDEST CAPITOL OF JAPAN (710-784 AD)
| A short way out of Osaka lies the ancient city of Nara. It is considered to be the cradle of Japanese civilization. It was the first political and cultural (arts & crafts) center of a united Japan. The city is noted for its long history of traditional Japanese arts and crafts, such a calligraphy (writing), traditional fans, and carved dolls dressed in classical dance costumes. The city was founded (started) in 607 AD by Prince Shotok. At the height of its prosperity (good times), the city included ten acres of chapels, halls, and pagodas. One of these five-story pagodas serves as a symbol of Nara. At the end of the 8th century, the capitol was moved to Kyoto. Much of the city has been destroyed in civil wars and rebuilt throughout the years. |  |
| The Todaiji (Great Eastern Temple), which is the largest wooden structure in the world, was reconstructed in 1708. A giant bronze Buddha, who “shines a light of wisdom and mercy and offers salvation to all,” looms over visitors as they enter the temple. To give you an idea of the Buddha’s size, each of his eyes is three feet wide! During our visit to the temple, students on school field trips were lighting joss (incense) sticks and praying for the blessings of the Buddha. Inside the temple, the students and crew crawled through a narrow tunnel in a large column (it’s a test of whether you are “good person”). Being skinny was definitely part of the requirement! |  |
 | As a symbol of Nara’s harmony between man and nature, some 1,200 tame deer roam the grounds. They provided great fun for the crew. Since they are accustom to (used to) being fed, they follow visitors in hopes of a snack. Captain Parrott and I had a good laugh when one deer, annoyed that Captain Miles had nothing for him to eat, tore away a corner of his map. Japanese visit Nara throughout the year to attend festivals and ceremonies while enjoying the blossoms of spring or the colorful foliage (leaves) of autumn. For the Japanese, it is a place of spiritual pleasure and peace of mind. |
Go to Part 2 of the June 30, 1998 Log
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