Teacher Aboard

Pusan should have been a short easy sail from Tong Yong. Mother Nature, however, was still in "one her moods," and dealt us wind on the nose (ahead of us) and lots of rain. We are on the eve of monsoon season which will eventually brings a solid downpour for a good two weeks in late June. These seasonal rains happen when the summer sun heats the huge inland regions of Asia causing the hot air to rise. Then cool damp ocean air moves in to replace it. Maybe Mother Nature was just warming up, but as she practiced her downpour of rain, we sailed Pride II to weather (toward the wind). In contrast to the cruising sailor who may sail wherever the wind is most favorable, Pride II has a schedule to meet. We were going to have to "work for this one."

FISHING WITH THE STARBOARD ENGINE

As if rain and unfavorable winds were not enough, suddenly our starboard (right) engine took on a new personality of noises. We shut it down and began a trail of investigations. It seemed the culprit (cause of the problem) was outside the ship. At dawn, Captain Miles brought Pride II to a stop so John Shellenberger, our ever handy Mr. Fix-it, could dive over the side and have a look. After a bit of a struggle, John wrestled the "green monster" onto the deck. Looking disappointed, John pointed to the fishing net and said jokingly, "We towed that thing all night and still didn't catch a darn thing!"

SAILING PRIDE II LIKE A "DINGHY"

As a reward for our efforts, our day of arrival at Pusan was graced with glorious sunshine and fair winds. The crew readied Pride II for her visit by rinsing the decks and polishing her "bits and pieces" of brass. In the fair breeze, Captain Miles ordered sails set. After all this powering into bad weather, this entrance was going to be a show! Like a horse let out of the barn, Captain Miles tacked Pride II smartly around the harbor enjoying the chance to "let her stretch her legs." While the eager crowd on the dock was most impressed, they kept asking, "Where is she going?" It seems the concept (idea) of tacking as a means of sailing into the wind was new to them. Meanwhile Captain Miles and the crew were thoroughly enjoying this "dinghy (small boat) sail" in the harbor. There was little boat traffic to worry about so it must have provided quite a show for all the folks at the container docks. Pusan, Pride of Baltimore II has arrived!

PUSAN HARBOR

Sailing into the harbor entrance, we noted a cluster of spectacular rocks called Oryukto meaning "five, six." The name is derived from the number of visible rocks that changes with high and low tide. They are a trademark of Pusan harbor and serve to welcome maritime visitors. Once inside the harbor, huge ships with cranes looming overhead lined the docks. The ships are an integral (important) part of the busy port of Pusan which supports the city's industries of shoes, textiles, steel and shipbuilding.

NEW CREW

Steadily we are changing over the "old guard" for new crew. Jason Quilter (first mate) and Summer O'Malley (deck hand) were scheduled to fly home from Pusan. In the interim, our troops now include Wes Heerssen (first mate), Mike Rogers (engineer) and Pamela Coughlin. Coming to relieve Captain Miles after four months in command that took us through China, Taiwan, and Korea is Captain Dan Parrott. Not wanting to miss the transit on the Middle Sea of Japan, John Shellenberger (engineer) and Captain Miles are staying on board. John will fly out of Osaka and Captain Miles will travel on land in Japan ahead of the ship to make final adjustments for Pride II's docking in upcoming cities.

CONGRATULATIONS TO CAPTAIN PARROTT!

Pride, Inc. is pleased to announce that Captain Dan Parrott will assume the full-time position of Captain for the "two rotating captains" program as of this changeover in Pusan After six years of service, Captain Bob Glover has commitments that keep him on shore. Captain Dan Parrott stepped into the Asia With Pride Tour in Aruba and took command for the transit from Panama to Hawaii. He returned home to New England in February to complete his masters degree in Marine Affairs at the University of Rhode Island. He is now joining us in Korea to take Pride II through the Japanese portion of the tour. It is a real pleasure to have Captain Parrott aboard once again. His background is impressive and can be reviewed in the crew biographies. Captain Parrott and his wife, Kim, will be moving to Baltimore as Kim begins her career as a teacher in Baltimore County. She will be joining us for two weeks during Pride II's tour of Japan. A warm welcome to Captain Parrott. And congratulations!

SHIP MAINTENANCE

Taking advantage of a few days of sunshine, the first mates, Jason Quilter and Wes Heerssen, broke out the list of maintenance items. In anticipation of a busy month in Japan and the upcoming Pacific crossing, there was a lot to be done. Some sails needed to be stitched and there were a few places in the rig that needed a coating of tar. The tar is a mixture of pine tar, linseed oil, and black paint. It is applied to the standing rigging (lines which support the masts) as weatherproofing. Other projects included adding a coat of paint to the black and yellow portions of the hull and oiling some of the brightwork (wood). The crew put in some long days on the paint in order to beat rain showers that rolled in on the heels of our sunny days.

THE WORLD'S TOUGEST YACHT RACE

At the former 1998 Olympic Yachting Center here in Pusan, we had the good fortune to meet crew from two of the 67 foot long BT (British Telecommunications) Global Challenge yachts. Presently they are in Korea promoting participation in the year 2000-2001 race. The boats for this race must be especially tough because the course takes them around the world against the prevailing wind. Since sailboats have to tack (zig zag) and pound into large seas when going to windward (heading into the wind), these yachts have to be extremely strong to withstand the constant battle with the wind and waves. This will be the third race as enthusiasm builds for testing human skill and endurance in the world's toughest yacht race. In one previous race at a latitude of 55 degrees south in the cold waters south of Africa, the wind never dropped below 50 knots for 25 straight days!

You can check out details on the BT Challenge Yacht Race Web site. Since the BT Challenge yachts had just arrived from Japan, the skippers (captains) were familiar with the heavy tidal flow between the islands in the Inland Sea of Japan. Captain Miles and Captain Parrott took advantage of these captains' recent experience to discuss their observations in anticipation of our passage through these same waters in the upcoming week.

A BUDDHIST TEMPLE BY THE SEA

In contrast to the tranquil mountain settings of other Buddhist temples, Yonggungas (Dragon Palace) Temple rests on a forested rocky cliff facing the wide expanse of the Sea of Japan. The vista (view) and the rhythm of the crashing surf lure devotees and tourists alike to meditate in these peaceful surroundings. One hundred eight steps lead to an arched stone bridge spanning a cut in the rocky cliff. The main temples overlook the sea, one of which is a place for devotees of Confucius. A statue of a dragon, a protector of those at sea, is perched in a watchful position to oversee the fishermen offshore. Standing at the top of the cliff is a goddess of good health where people come to ask her blessing. It is a lovely location for a religion that celebrates harmony in the natural world.

MODERN PUSAN

Pusan is a delightful mixture of the traditional Asian world and modern conveniences. Korea's age old dependence on the sea is translated in street after street of fish markets and restaurants. The "fresh is best" Asian philosophy prevails (continues) as tanks of fish stand proudly at the entrance of each restaurant and fish markets display tubs brimming with an assortment of live seafood delicacies. At one market, I paused to watch an octopus who had its eyes above the surface of the tank as if surveying its surroundings - something I've seen them do before. Knowing that octopuses are very intelligent, I found this disturbing. I wish they wouldn't eat them. After helping my watch pick Pride II's way through all the bright lights of squid boats and seeing all these tanks, I can't help but wonder how long the ocean will support this constant "harvest" of seafood. Asian traditions are also seen just off the main streets where alleys are filled with wonderfully colorful markets selling fresh vegetables, dried fish, and consumer goods such as clothes, shoes, and trinkets. Harbor fish markets and alley shopping areas are bustling places, even in the middle of the day.

Modern Pusan stands "elbow to elbow" with the markets. Stepping onto the main thoroughfare, privately owned cars are the standard mode of transportation. Buses, taxis, scooters, and an efficient subway system also move among the modern buildings and stores of downtown Pusan. Reflective of the local industries, shops selling shoes, clothes (textiles), and electronics are everywhere. On the second floor overlooking this street scene around the harbor or downtown are coffee shops filled with cozy arrangements of large comfortable chairs. Instead of entertaining in their homes that are typically in high rise apartments, Koreans meet for a leisurely cup of coffee or juice at a coffee house.

In the evening, these coffee shops become a quiet spot to have a beer. Or they may take on the flavor of a nightclub with dance music. One of the English translations on a coffee shop sign proved amusing. It read, "Coffee & Solid Drink." Hmmm? How does one swallow a solid drink? Could it be "hard liquor" they were advertising? No complaints! I speak no Korean. Just an observation!

BEACHES AND RECREATION

Pusan is well known by Koreans as a popular tourist destination. Long curving white beaches such as Haeundae and Kwang-an-ri lure crowds to enjoy water sports of swimming, windsurfing, jet skis, water skiing, and fishing. Large hotels with neon signs stand across from the beach where people slowly stroll along the gently cresting surf. Walking the beach at night under the lights of hotels, stores, and nightclubs with the sounds of amusement rides in the background reminded me of our ocean resorts a half a world away. For all the differences between people, there are just as many similarities. Families everywhere love to spend time at the beach.

Koreans enjoy their sports, too, both as spectators and participants. Soccer, basketball, and bowling are popular. Golf is played, but green fees are high. Arcades full of computer games are always packed with young people. Game simulators (models) even have motorcycles or jet skis that you ride as you play the game. Large stadiums are home to baseball teams such as Pusan's Lotte Giants.

At John Shellenberger's request of "take me out to the ball game," Kelly Parks, our Pusan public relations manager, organized a baseball trip for the crew. While a first glance the stadium and game seemed very American, closer inspection revealed a few interesting differences. Most of the scoreboard was in Korean characters, as were the names on the players shirts.

While this was to be expected, the selection offered by the vendors walking through the stands was a bit extraordinary - peanuts, popcorn, ice cream, dried squid, and boiled grubs. Yes, we heard it with our own ears, "Step right up and get your cup of boiled bugs right here!" No thanks!

However, at risk of needing dental work, I tried the squid. It was salty and very tough. Kelly came to the rescue by showing me how to tear it lengthwise into small chewable pieces. Much better.

For the record, Korea has a half dozen or so teams representing the major cities. The owners of the Lotte Giants started out as producers of gum and now manufacture snacks, as well as owning other industries. The other team, the Sang Bang Wool Raiders, are sponsored by a firm that originally manufactured underwear. Never underestimate the basics in life! For you sports fans, the final score was: Giants 9, Raiders 2. What a game!

Continue with the second part of the June 17, 1998 log.

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