Teacher Aboard

By now, I imagine you are cleaning out lockers and turning in books for the year. Oh, the joy of ripping off those book covers! Whether you are heading for the beach, kicking back at home, or planning to travel to some distant land for high adventure, I wish you a great summer vacation. Please join me on my travels on Pride of Baltimore II. I'll be aboard telling you all about Korea and Japan until the end of July.

AT THE MERCY OF THE WIND

Sailing is subject to the whims of Mother Nature. Fortunately in modern times, we have engines to keep us from helplessly drifting along when the wind dies. However, when Mother Nature decides to "give us a run for our money" by dishing out winds of 25-30 knots, the building seas mean trouble for Pride II. For instance, on the way to Tong Yong, Korea, we "hoved-to" (tied off the helm and reduced sail) several times while waiting for the winds to lessen and the seas to die down. It is next to impossible to make any headway (forward progress) with engines or sails, when Pride IIis pounding into choppy seven foot waves.

We weren't the only ones to find this meteorological (weather) temper tantrum to be personally challenging. A white crane-like egret landed on deck to take refuge from the wind. Meanwhile, Captain Miles agonized over weather maps which we receive regularly by FAX. Like our very own "black cloud," this low pressure system (rainy windy weather) seemed to follow our course

We patiently watched the recording barometer (used to measure air pressure) only to witness it drop from 1010 mb (millibars) to 998 mb. Since the air pressure usually starts to rise before the weather clears, we were eager to see the needle start an upward turn. In time, all things will pass, including our low which delayed our arrival in TongYong by one day. In this twentieth century rush to meet deadlines, I wonder how many people have paused to consider that Pride II is using 1812 technology. In those days "the ship arrived WHEN the ship arrived!"

ARRIVING IN TONGYONG

When the storm (low pressure) finally cleared, sunshine brilliantly ushered Pride II into the port city of TongYong. The crew polished the brass, rinsed the decks, and generally readied the ship for her welcome in our sister state of Kyongsangnam Province. TongYong harbor was our first introduction to Korea and I must say it made a striking first impression. The coast was reminiscent (similar) to Maine in that the inland waterway was dotted with tree-covered rocky islands while taller forested mountains rose up from behind. The lush green of the surrounding hillsides presented a pleasantly peaceful welcome after several long days at sea

Meanwhile, an official Welcome Ceremony awaited us at the dock where government dignitaries from our sister state (province) and the city of TongYong greeted us warmly. Warm rays of sunshine gave us a bright sunny day for our guests to tour Pride II after the ceremony. Like a rainbow after the storm, the sunshine added a colorful end to a worrisome journey.

DINING KOREAN STYLE

An ancient Korean proverb says "a majestic view has no charm when the table is bare." In keeping with this spirit of dining, the crew was treated to a traditional Korean dinner at a local restaurant in TongYong. This was our first introduction to Korean culture. Following the lead of our hosts, we left our shoes outside the dining room door and selected seats on pillows on the floor. A small container of hot charcoals flamed in the center of the table. It would be used to grill pulgogi, which are tasty strips of marinated beef. Typically the menu includes bean curd soup or a bubbling broth with vegetables, as well as rice, small pancakes stuffed with meat or vegetables, and baked fish.

No meal would be complete without "kimchee," a highly seasoned and fermented cabbage, radish or cucumber which is a favorite of Koreans. Chopsticks are still the "order of the day." By now, many of us are becoming quite skilled at dining with chopsticks which was a pleasant surprise to our hosts. Watermelon and a sweet beverage with a few grains of rice brought the meal to a close. It was a lovely traditional meal and fine start to our adventures in Korea.

In a country surrounded by water, it is not surprising that Korea is noted for its fresh seafood. To guarantee the ultimate in "fresh," dockside restaurants display large tanks of their most recent catch of eel, squid, octopus, fish, and sea cucumber. Small tables with colorful umbrellas are arranged on the dock near the fisherman's boat or on an adjacent barge for customers to enjoy the local delicacies. The atmosphere is festive at night as tourists and Koreans leisurely spend their evening at these local hubs for dining and socializing.

Sinker (Mike McCreey) surprised the crew by shopping at these dockside tanks to provide something fresh on his day as "substitute" cook on Tina's day off. "And THIS is the main course," he announced proudly placing a shallow tub of water holding a live octopus in the center of the table. The crew loved it . . . but NOT to eat. After chasing our new friend the octopus back into the tub a few times, we dropped it back into the harbor for a second chance on life.

Noting the number of Koreans who use small grills for cookouts by the beach, Tina decided to follow their lead and planned a sunset beach party for the crew. While helping Tina set up, some Korean "cookout neighbors" invited us over for a bite of grilled eel - quite tasty, I might add. Our menu, on the other hand, was more suitable to the Western palate (taste) with hot dogs, baked beans, chips, and macaroni salad. Having missed Memorial Day cookouts back home, the crew was eager for some American tradition. The tranquil beach side setting turned out to be a perfect opportunity for John Hope, Caroline Smith, and Sinker to provide musical entertainment on guitar. A good time was had by all.

TONGYONG HARBOR

Pointing out all the ships in dry dock (up on land), Captain Miles was the first to note that TongYong harbor was a "captain's dream come true." If you wanted the ship repaired, this looked like the place. As it turns out, ship building and repair is one of TongYong's major industries which explains why so many ships were sitting "high and dry."

The harbor city, which is set at the foot of lush green mountains, is also known as a tourist destination where Koreans and Japanese enjoy water sports such as boating and jet skis. Closer to the heart of town, coffee shops and stores stand facing the fishing docks where houses perched on the hillside overlook the harbor below. It is very picturesque (pretty like a picture). TongYong is often called "the Naples of Korea."

Wandering away from the harbor a few streets will lead you to open air markets filled with food stands selling fresh or dried fish, squid, fruits and grains displayed in bowls or baskets on the ground. Occasionally you may even see some women at the market or near the docks carrying baskets or bowls on their heads. In contrast to the market scene, the city streets suggest a very modern society.

Cars and buses are more commonly used as compared to the number of scooter and bicycles that we found in China and Taiwan. Stores offer modern consumers goods, and coffee houses provide places for Koreans to socialize. The Koreans have worked diligently (hard) to bring their country into economic prosperity (making money). In general, the lifestyle of Koreans is comfortable and more comparable (the same as) to our American standard of living.

Continue with the second part of the June 9, 1998 log.

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