HOVE TO
AMY'S ISSUES
PIRATES Another issue on the water has been pirates. Yes, I said pirates. Fortunately, the incidences are not occurring here. However, Captain Miles has received warning reports through our communication system about armed men in small boats asking for assistance from tankers near Indonesia and the Philippines. Once on board, they rob the ship at gun point. It is not a threat to us since we are hundreds of miles north of this warning, but it is interesting to think that in this modern world "pirates" still exist. NEW CREW
CREW LIFESTYLE
Some of the crew don't really have a place of their own. There would be no point in paying rent when they are only home for a few weeks between jobs on another boat. Often most of their "worldly possessions" can fit into one or two sea bags they bring aboard the ship. As one job comes to a close, an organization called the American Sail Training Association (ASTA) provides crew members with information about jobs available on other ships. Most crew take a short vacation before signing onto the new vessel. These folks are not in this for the money. It is hard work for hardy souls. It is a labor of love. There is something about "messin' around in boats" that sailors are drawn toward. Some of them may sail tall ships for as long as possible. Others will be moving back to life on land, blowing the dust off college degrees that have been lying around. The only guarantee is that when you leave a ship, you will no longer be the same as the person who signed on. You will be better. The sacrifices, hardships, excitement, and new discoveries will forever add to your character. It is not a matter of money. Lessons in life can not be purchased, they must be experienced. THE PORT CITY OF KEELUNG
SHOPPING
Mixed among the scooters parked on the sidewalk are brightly lit stands emitting smells to lure shoppers to try a variety of foods. Small sidewalk tables are usually crowded with folks socializing over a bowl of soup or a bite to eat. With apartments situated over the shops, the activity of these street scenes takes on a "neighborhood feeling."
RAIN, RAIN, RAIN
CHUNG-CHEN PARK
Devotees come to these temples to make offerings to gods to ask for their blessings, to pay respect to their deceased ancestors, and to ask for wishes toward a better life. In general, the philosophy is aimed at achieving harmony and balance with the world. The hilltop setting for Chung-Chen Park is majestic and provides a lovely view of the city below. My only disappointment was that the vistas (views) were limited by the rainy mist that hid the potentially scenic landscape.
HISTORY OF TAIWAN Populated by aborigines in prehistoric times, Taiwan was later settled by the Chinese 1,400 years ago. As westerners explored the Far East, the Spanish took possession of Keelung in 1626, but were driven away by the Dutch. In 1661, the Dutch were overthrown by the Ming Dynasty of China. Eventually Taiwan became a province of China in 1887. As Japan expanded its territories, it took possession of Taiwan from 1895 to the end of World War II in 1945. The lengthy occupation by Japan left behind a legacy of Japanese influence in subtle ways, such as words and foods. When the Communists took control of mainland China in the late 1940s, the Nationalist government under the leadership of Chiang Kai-shek, fled to Taiwan. In 1991 President Lee Teng-hui of Taiwan declared an end to the civil war with China, although at times the relationship between the two nations is still strained. SCHOOLS, GREETING and GIFTS
CHINA and TAIWAN
BACK IN THE SADDLE
THE END OF THE YEAR! I suppose you guys are counting down! Like horses headed for the barn, you are eager to finish the last stretch of school before summer vacation. Best of luck on these final days. Pride II, on the other hand, will continue her "Asia With Pride" Tour until late November of this year. While you are on vacation, she will visit Korea, Japan, and sail back across the Pacific Ocean. By late August, Pride II will be in Seattle for the beginning of her trip south to the Panama Canal. By Thanksgiving, she will be sailing the familiar waters of the Chesapeake Bay on her final stretch to a homecoming celebration in Baltimore Harbor. This will mark the end of a one year journey to the other side of the world. In that time Pride II will have crossed the Earth's largest ocean to enable us to explore new places and make new friends.
CREW BIO: WESLEY HEERSSEN
Wes's easy style has understandable roots. He spent the early years of his youth in St. Croix, US Virgin Islands, where he sailed on fiberglass sloops up to 40 ft. long and worked at a charter sailboat business which was owned by his best friend's family. One of his jobs was a snorkeling guide, so it is no surprise that he had his SCUBA diving certification by the time he was twelve years old! When his services were not needed on the boats, he would wait on the docks and weave palm hats to sell to the tourists. It was a lucrative (money making) business for a seven year old and produced enough money to buy his first Atari game. Unfortunately for Wes, this Caribbean world in which he had so successfully found his niche (place) was not to last. When he was thirteen, his family move to Houston, Texas.
In his early teens he managed to stay close to the water by volunteering on the Elissa, a three masted, square rigged barque that sails out of Galveston, Texas. By eleventh grade, the lure to return to a life on the water was too great. With his GED under his belt, Wes signed on as a paid deckhand for the Golden Hind and later, the Elissa. He sent his resume to ASTA (the American Sail Training Association) and located a job on the Mystic Clipper schooner in New England. This was the beginning of a long list of boats in Wes's life. During this time, he delivered yachts to the Caribbean, sailed on Pride II on her 1990 European Tour, and was chief mate on Tole Mour when she was a hospital ship and later a cargo/sail training ship in the South Pacific. A non-sailing experience included a job on a supply vessel for offshore oil rigs in the Gulf of Mexico.
Wes is no newcomer to challenges and, as first mate for Pride II's crossing of the Pacific, he can add another one to his list of accomplishments. His smooth, professional style of leadership is no doubt a result of this lifetime of experiences. We are delighted to have him as first mate on Pride II.
Happy summer vacation!
YOUR THOUGHTS
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In the last episode of "Youth in Asia" (a statement about all the 20-something crew members on Pride II), we were "hove to" and waiting for the wind to die down. Too much wind creates big waves that slow the ship down as she tries to plow through them. For example, in our earlier effort to reach Keelung, one big wave came over the bow and splashed down through the ventilation hatch of the galley in the middle of the ship! Instead of fighting these waves, Captain Miles decided to "heave to" by sailing with just the mainsail set and lashing the helm to one side. Pride II then sails off the wind just enough for an easier ride and stays in one place until the winds lessen.
While we are on water topics, let me mention "Amy's issues" -- fishing boats. I call them this because it is the watch leader's responsibility to notify the Captain of any vessel within two miles. As part of Amy's watch from 8 pm to midnight, Amy once mentioned to Captain Miles that she had some "issues" (lots of fishing boats) to discuss. Apparently these fishermen attract squid to their boats with outrageously bright lights. With so many boats fishing these waters, sometimes there is a glow over the horizon that resembles a city. I wonder how long the numbers of fish can hold up against this kind of harvest. Meanwhile it makes our lives interesting as we dodge boats all night long.
We are now midway through our "Asia With Pride" journey. Consequently, our original crew is going home and a replacement crew is joining the tour. Andy Jackson, our cook, flew home from Hong Kong. He was replaced by Tina Koch. Kelly Landen and Damion Sailors returned to Alaska from Kaohsiung, Taiwan, where Chris Flansberg and John Hope signed on to fill their places. Amy Strange, my watch leader, left in Keelung. By the time Pride II leaves Japan to set out to cross the Pacific Ocean for Seattle, she will have an entirely new crew. Even I fly home on August 1, since Pride II will not reach Seattle in time for me to return to my teaching position at Westlake High in Waldorf before the start of new school year. As each crew member leaves, there is a feeling of losing a family member. Pride II is only 100 feet long and we have been together for six months. While the old friends will be missed, it has been great fun getting to know the new folks. Many of them have sailed on Pride II during other tours. I will begin to profile each of our new members so you can also get to know them. You're really going to like them!
Your first thought might be, "Why are they changing crew"? After living aboard for all these months, I can better understand the reasoning. Sailing on Pride II is an interesting, but challenging, experience. The tour provides a tremendous opportunity to travel the world and gain "blue water" (ocean) experience on a ship that is well respected in the industry (tall ship circles). The crew are competent (skilled) tall ship sailors who love adventure and enjoy their time at sea. They are often the envy of others who see the excitement (but none of the sacrifices) made by these brave adventurous young people. Think of yourself as a crew member on Pride II. You will not be home for six months (and a lot can happen in six months). In your absence, family members or pets could have passed away. Some of our crew members write to boyfriends/girlfriends or spouses wondering how they will handle things in their absence. For instance, Amy's husband moved their home closer to his new job while she was gone. Imagine leaving one home and coming back to a new address!
Nestled at the foot of mountains at the northern end of the island, Keelung is the second largest port in Taiwan. Fireboats spouted water to welcome Pride II as they escorted her to a dock in the heart of the city. Taiwan's industrious population has enabled this country to excel in producing products, such as high quality shoes and clothes, that account for a large portion of her exports. Exports also include machinery, metals, chemicals, fruits, food products, and electronic equipment.
This tiny country is currently listed as the world's 13th largest trading nation. Considering its small size, it is amazing to think that Taiwan is one of Asia's mightiest economies. The productive nature of this nation is evident in the constant activity in container ports, such as Keelung.
The streets of Keelung, as in other Asian cities, are lined with shops and sidewalk food stands. Many of these shops offer a nice selection of clothes, shoes, electronics, teak or rosewood furniture, and jewelry. Taiwan is noted for its beautiful carved coral jewelry. Although I have to agree with its beauty, I shutter to think of the damage done to these slow growing coral reefs as a result of such sales. Then, of course, the rain forest must fall to produce the teak and rosewood furniture. I tend to shop with an awareness of the environment. I try not to buy products that damage the habitat of living things.
My guidebook tells me that it rains an average of 214 days a year in Keelung. Although the sun greeted us on our day of arrival, we experienced Keelung's windy, rainy weather for our last two days. The "scooter population" now sported rain ponchos or plastic rain suits as they continued to zoom up and the down the streets untroubled by the wet situation. I have to admit, however, I was amused to see the occasional umbrella held over a scooter as it drove past.
As we entered the port of Keelung, we noticed a huge white statue standing watchfully over the harbor. This 74 foot tall statue of the Goddess of Mercy is situated in a lovely park at the top of hill. Adjacent (next) to the statue are several ornate temples for devotees of Taoism. An elegant Buddhist temple rests near the bottom of the hill. Taoism and Buddhism are more a way of life than a religion.
During our short visit to Keelung, a few groups of students toured the ship and very graciously brought beautifully hand made gifts for students in Maryland. I want to extend our sincere appreciation for their thoughtfulness. Giving small gifts in a gesture of welcome is an Asian tradition. Commonly when Captain Miles meets with authorities or when I meet with school administrators, small gifts are exchanged. What usually happens is that honored guests are escorted into an office or meeting room and seated to the right of the mayor or principal. Business cards are exchanged with both hands and read carefully to determine the owner's name and position. This opportunity of introductions is used to repeat each others' names and become familiar with their pronunciation. Tea, water, and fruit are served as refreshments and it is polite to sample these offerings. Toward the end of a brief informal meeting, small gifts, preferably wrapped in red paper, are exchanged with both hands. They are not unwrapped until after you leave. As guests leave, they are escorted all the way to the door. This tradition and formality is considered proper etiquette in Asia. These customs are long standing in the culture and it is courteous to try to respect and follow these customs.
Exploring China and Taiwan has been an interesting and wonderful opportunity for me. It will take awhile to fully digest all the experiences of this fast-paced introduction to these multi-faceted (many sided) cultures. If there is one thing I have come to learn, it is that the more you think you understand, the more you realize you have to learn. There is 5,000 years of culture woven into the lifestyle and thinking of these Asian people. Tradition has a special place of importance in their lives. There is a lot to understand about Asia that does not immediately "meet the eye" (seem obvious). It is like the story of the four blind men meeting an elephant for the first time. One feels the tail and says an elephant is like a rope. The second touches the trunk and declares it to be like a snake. The third finds a leg and says the elephant is like a tree. The last places both hands on its side and decides the elephant is like a wall. Our understanding is limited by our experiences and how well we interpret those experiences. Perhaps the lesson here is not to draw any conclusions too quickly, but instead to give our new discoveries time to settle into our overall impression of Asia.
Leaving Taiwan, we are now headed north to Korea. For a considerable length of time the wind was "on the nose" (blowing from the front) and very strong. For a good while the breeze was 25 or 30 knots. The strong winds push up a big sea of large waves. That spells slow going for Pride II. Rather than place wear and tear on the rigging while making no headway, Captain Miles decided to "heave to" again to ride it out. For two days we basically sailed gently in one place as the low pressure system moved past. All was not lost. We caught a mahi mahi and as well as some sleep. For me, it was a chance to catch up on my interviews with the new crew members.
For those of you who can get on the Internet from home, you can continue to be a virtual stowaway here on Pride II! I'll be on board until the end of July and will continue to share our adventures with you. Then there will be a substitute teacher aboard for the Pacific crossing. SO STAY ABOARD PRIDE II ALL SUMMER ON THIS WEB SITE! We will keep you involved in the adventure as the summer rolls along. If you're headed out the door for summer, please plan to join us in the fall as we count down our last three months of our "Asia With Pride" Tour.
