Teacher Aboard

THE PEARL RIVER

Heading up the Pearl River from Hong Kong to Guangzhou provided a few different twists on the Pride II's usual activities. A look at a map shows that this port of call is situated in a river delta whose geologic history has divided it into many branches. Local regulations required that a river pilot (captain) be brought on board for the journey up the river.

The Pearl River carries a heavy flow of traffic which was mostly ships or barges loaded with gravel and wood. As we traveled up river from the mouth to Guangzhou, we noticed that the fishing boats were always present but got smaller as we moved further from the sea.

The waters of this delta are on the move as the tide rises and falls about four feet. Adding to the tidal action is the river's natural flow which continues to carry its load of sediment (mud) from the headwaters to the South China Sea. The high sediment load colors the water brown as the river continues to build the delta with deposits of sediment.

As we journeyed up river, the crew had to lower both of Pride II's topmasts (extensions of the masts) in order for the ship to pass under some low wires and bridges. Rigging was everywhere as they disassembled the upper rig. Captain Miles consulted Pride II's plans to ensure that the ship would be low enough for clearance after the "operation." As we neared our destination, the crew reassembled the rig so Pride II would present a smart appearance when we arrived

The Port of Guangzhou welcomed us enthusiastically with lion dancers and songs. This was followed by a press conference, a lovely Welcome Ceremony with city officials, and a traditional Cantonese lunch provided by the Maryland Port Administration. The setting was lovely as we were berthed (docked) at the White Swan Hotel whose facilities provided a well deserved break for the crew.

GUANGZHOU'S ROLE IN THE HISTORY OF CHINA

An overpowering theme in China's history is the constantly recurring effort to make China into one country. These efforts were frequently punctuated by splintering among different factions and by invasions by competing warlords or attacks from the north. Between these times of unrest, brilliant dynasties like the Han, Tang, Song and Ming dominated the land. One of the first impressions of Guangzhou is that it has played a significant role in this long history. Its roots reach back more than 2,000 years when is was the starting point for "the silk road on the sea" during the Qin and Han Dynasties (221 BC - 220AD).

A visit to the tomb of the second Nanyue King of the Western Han Dynasty (206 BC - AD 24) reveals the wonders of the rich lifestyle of the emperor whose burial shroud was made of thousands of pieces of jade laced together. Gold dragon seals, beautifully carved jade discs, and assorted items made of bronze, iron, crystal and fabric show how advanced the culture of the time was. Musical instruments constructed of bells or strings found in the tomb reminded me that in the silence of these exhibits there is a musical history that can only be imagined.

A walk through the exhibits in the Guangzhou City Museum, housed in the Zhenhai Tower (Qing Dynasty 1762), traces the active trading history of this historic city. Evidence of early sailing vessels and merchants from Western ports are displayed and show the influence of foreign cultures. This influence can also be seen in the architecture of Guangzhou.

On the island of Shamian where Pride II was docked, the western architecture of Europe can be noted in such buildings as the 19th century home of a rich Cantonese Merchant. Guangzhou's role in China's trade is particularly significant because for most of China's early history, this was the ONLY port open to foreign trade. During those times, Guangzhou was known to westerners as Canton. Goods such as tea, silk, rice, porcelain, books, copper articles, gold, silver, and textiles were exported in exchange for imports of spices, wood, and luxury items. Western resentment (discontent) about China's restrictive trading practices came to a head in the Opium Wars of 1839 and 1856.

China lost those wars because the Europeans had superior canons and firepower. She was forced to opened five new "treaty ports" to European Trade. The last dynasty (Quig Dynasty 1616-1911) gave way to European and Japanese expansion. After a series of anti-western rebellions, like the Boxer Rebellion in 1900, the Republic of China was established. By 1921 the Chinese Communist Party had formed in Shanghai. When the Nationalist party, led by General Chiang Kai-shek, failed to stop the spread of communism, he fled to Taiwan in 1949 with his followers.

When Pride II reaches Taiwan, we will explore the destiny of the Nationalists in their new homeland. With the Nationalists gone from mainland China, the People's Republic of China was formed in 1950. Technically Taiwan is still a province of China which will not recognize Taiwan as an independent nation. Although trade is starting to grow between the two, the relationship between China and Taiwan has usually been hostile (angry). Fortunately, relations are improving and no shots have been fired (lately).

THE CHEN CLAN ACADEMY

The Chen Clan Academy, a school of classical learning established in 1895, is now a working museum devoted to the collection and care of handicrafts from various regions of China. Touring the museum and gift shop is a delightful way to appreciate the many talents of Chinese artists. Sculptures, bonsai (potted landscapes), embroidery, porcelain, and carvings in jade and bone represent some of the exquisite (detailed) items on display. Tiny snuff bottles with miniature pictures painted on the inside or ivory lattice balls consisting of 24 carved balls, each one inside the other, are vivid examples of the meticulous (highly detailed) workmanship of these artists.

Continue with the second part of the May 7, 1998 log.

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